Lucas Paya, Bar Centro, The Bazaar, SLS Hotel

Just as Picasso shown extraordinary talent decades before his journeys into cubism and surrealism, the best abstract painters can also replicate uncanny likeness of the human form.  Accordingly, the controversy with molecular gastronomy is not arising with its innovators, but rather from tawdry imitators.  And, when one participates, for the first time, in the proper execution of its unexpected contrasts, it all makes sense.  Barcelona native, Lucas Paya, has earned the term ‘bar chef’ like few others.  First, he has spent time behind the line, the bar and on the floor.  It all started for Paya vicariously at his father’s table—where he would listen and learn about the virtues of wine.  Then it was on to college at Escola Superior d’Hosteleria de Barcelona, where Lucas studied under José Maria Gotarda, a second-generation bar protégé, whose father earned mythical status as a bartender in the middle of the last century.

Paya went on to collaborate with two of the most important chefs in the world, Ferran Adrià, with whom he worked for five years as sommelier at El Bulli and José Andrés, in his current post at the SLS Hotel, in Beverly Hills, where Lucas serves as beverage director.  Under his guidance, the cocktail program is incessantly pushing the boundaries of form and function, drawing upon his own roots and the notorious proclivities of his collaborator, José Andrés, replete with spherification, liquid olives, liquid nitrogen and calcium chloride.  The remarkable thing is that would-be-gimmicks aside, the cocktails are delectable on their own merits—the show, as it were, is value-add.  But, when Paya is at the helm, the performance is executed in such an expert meticulousness, that one cannot escape awe. Drinking sangria outside of someone’s private home almost invariably results in colossal failure.  Bar Centro, at The Bazaar is redefining neglected libations, giving LA a reason to drink them again.  The Individual Sangria—the cutest cocktail in town—is served in a mini pitcher, to scale,  and features Pares Balta Cava, lime rounds, raspberry, verbena , gin, Cognac, Cointreau, simple syrup, orange skin and grapes.  And, it has to be the best sangria you’ve ever drunk.

Among his cocktails, Paya—who is as erudite as he is gracious and consummately Spanish—is reviving classics, with his own twist, of course, and unapologetically affronting the limits of his confines.  His version of the Dirty Martini calls for Ketel One and Noilly Prat, clean, topped with an olive brine air—the unexpected contrast of the salty foam, chased by the essence of pure distillate is brilliant.  The Liquid Nitrogen Caipirinha, features cachaça, sugar, lime and is topped with edible petals, lime zest and verbena; the concoction is nitro-whisked until one eats it with a spoon.  But Paya’s pièce de résistance has to be the Pisco Sour which is served in a pint glass, with Pisco 100, lemon & lime juices, simple syrup, fresh egg whites and Angostura bitters.  The result is ridiculously decadent, while refreshing and simply elegant.

For the record, we had the great pleasure of spending an evening in Saam—the private dining room at Bazaar, where phenomenal wine dinners are held, on a regular basis—in which Lucas paired the entire twenty-two-course menu with the most elaborate, expertly-executed cocktails I’ve ever had.  This is not to be missed in Los Angeles.

Ron Cooper—Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal—and Lucas Paya meet for the first time at SLS Hotel, in the Bazaar.

For a similar piece, from Los Angeles Times Magazine, click here.

]]> http://bonsavant.com/2010/05/351/feed/ 1 http://bonsavant.com/2010/03/228/ http://bonsavant.com/2010/03/228/#comments Tue, 09 Mar 2010 00:41:56 +0000 Wyatt Peabody http://bonsavant.com/?p=228 The 2006 Lacheteau, Loire Valley, Vouvray, Chenin Blanc 12% [Imported by Plume Ridge Negotiants, Industry, CA] is medium-gold in color; with an elegant, intriguing nose of melon, honeydew, golden apple; with subtle green elements, pineapple, faint tropical fruit, nectarine, pear, honey and candied citrus with creamy undertones. The palate is sweet, off-dry, but clean—with firm acids and great structure/balance, offering candied pear, rich golden apple, nectarine and honey; with balanced almond in finish, distinct nuttiness, after otherwise clean mouth-feel; lingering candied citrus, honey and nectarine.

Trader Joe’s has done it again—this is the second vintage that I’ve purchased (the quality hasn’t faltered). An incredibly unique, balanced, expressive wine was a mere $6. Needless to say, it’s not Joly or Pithon; but it is a great introductory wine to the region and varietal.

Gigondas: Simple Salvation

So, there I was, at Gelson’s, knowing that they didn’t have my kind of wine—but rather bigger California producers, with a handful of international selections, significantly lacking in France, Spain and smaller producers from North America. No Ridge, nor Rafenelli; moreover, few bottles with any age on them. I had recently gotten a great bottle of Guigal C-D-P, at a great price. Then I saw the word “Gigondas” staring at me from across the room—evoking near butterflies. We dry-rubbed some beautiful filets and cooked them on mesquite, along with some vegetables; the meat paired beautifully with the wine, which had been decanted for over an hour.

The 2005 Domaine Grand Romane Gigondas Pierre Amadieu 14.5% [Selected by Guy Azera Imported by Transat Trade Inc. Gardena, CA]. is dark in color; with an intriguing nose of dark fruit, fresh dates, sweet tobacco, fresh herbs and faint tar; with undertones of sweet fruit, plums and cherries; with figs, faint chocolate and candied blackberry. Palate is balanced, though stout, with firm tannins and acids, while still approachable, offering flavors of black plums, spicy cherries and figs; with tobacco, earth, tar and fresh herbs. Very interesting to see where this goes in the next few years—could be one to cellar. Certainly not reached its full potential as of today; still big, strapping. Then again, what else can you get—in this style of wine—that touches something like this for $24.99? I could have easily spent twice as much, and gotten half-as-good. Keep reaching.

Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant 2003

Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant 2003
Medium-dark golden in color, with hints of orange.  Deep, rich fruit, with faint sweet candied nuances— golden apple, lime, caramel,  bright new wood; faint herbal notes, menthol, Corinth raisins, pineapple, lychee, plum, apricot, slightest hint of caramel, brown spices; as it evolves mineraltiy and nectar, caramelized apricots, pronounced nectar; faint white peach.

The palate is round with supple mouthfeel—amazing structure; lush golden apples, with ripe undercurrents of apricot, plum, brown spice; layers and layers of ripe fruit, faint nectar; faint lemon, crisp apples, mineral notes. Balanced acids, supple, lemon, apricot.  Lingering, immensely full finish. Complete, luscious. Faint peach.

Opened 4 days: left in cupboard 20 hours— nose of golden apples, faint apricot, lemon peel bright, cedar, pear, faint pineapple and tropical fruit. Still well built, far from tired. The palate is balanced, golden apple, faint pear tropical fruit, traces of tame wood, apple sauce, lemon—amazing lingering balance.

For those who have miraculously not had the pleasure of getting to know these singular wines—they must be allowed time to open; and, ideally, age in the bottle.  That said, young, they are simple astounding and unequaled.

To learn more about the biodynamic wine movement—Joly is the catalyst of its rebirth—read Wine: From Sky to Earth (Growing and Appreciating Biodynamic Wine).  I dare you to put it down after reading the first page.

Bedell Cellars 1997 Cupola North Fork of Long Island 70% Cabernet Sauvignon 20% Cabernet Franc 10% Merlot Cutchogue, NY.

It’s a pleasure to drink a domestic Bordeaux blend like this, which stands up to France, and certainly to California. Sadly, as close as it is to Manhattan—few people there have a clue about the greatness of Long Island wines.  Then again, as Hugo d’Acosta—Casa de Piedra winemaker/founder—says “los caminos malos traen a visitantes buenos, los caminos buenos significan a visitantes malos.” In short: the lesser-known attracts a better visitor.  Talk to some of the older residents of Napa about that dichotomy.

If you can find this wine, drink it now.

1945 La Tâche Domaine de la Romanée-Conti , Côte de Nuits, Gran Cru
Incredibly complex nose of earth, spice and faint smoke; as it evolves, dense black fruit, stewed cherries, plums, tobacco, soy, and mushrooms, with undertones of nuts, dates, toffee, wet leaves  and sweet, concentrated fruit.  The palate is immense, offering nuances of earth, spice, tobacco, leather, game and undertones of ripe, elegant fruit.  The texture is beautifully rich and balanced, displaying stout tannins, with a long, lingering aftertaste.  A true testament to the grace of provenance—a nearly flawless wine.

2005 Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc “La Crau”

Every once in a while something remarkable happens along one’s journey of endless discovery in the world of libations.  I have learned that, unless you spend a great deal of time traveling, there is usually an importer involved—a trail-blazer—names like Eric Solomon, Neal Rosenthal, Ron Cooper and, the incomparable Kermit Lynch.  He opened his doors in the year I was born, and his name was legendary, growing up in California.  He moved culture and changed lives, as evidenced by those who still seek his counsel; among them, Jim Harrison—the most important living American writer—who even writes in Kermit’s newsletter, on occasion.   In fact, Harrison, who eloquently while feverishly, discredited the 100-point scale—did so gracefully and categorically in that very newsletter.

People talk about eradicating snobbery in the wine world—this ongoing “issue” has its omnipresence well-rooted, amid a labyrinth of misconceptions.  But between people like Lynch and Harrison, there are no dragons to slay, only discoveries to be made.  It’s all about sharing openly, lovingly.  We tend to fear things we don’t know—it’s human nature, so we’re told.  This is ending with the coming generations, hungry for new experiences in a flat-world.  One such experience might be alternative white wines—getting away from the homogenized Chardonnay your grandmother knocks back—which is, thankfully, a far cry from the Lancers and Blue Nunn of my youth.

The 2005 Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc “La Crau” 13.5% [Kermit Lynch H. Brunier et Fils] is medium-gold in color; the bouquet is vibrant with youthful aromatics of ripe golden apples, pear and lemon—with candied undertones—pineapple, faint resin, Corinth raisins and fresh herbs. The palate is steely, great structure, with fat, round layers of flavor: pineapple, golden apples, tropical fruit, spice, fresh herbs; long, rich finish, candied lemon and sweet green apples; with lingering sweetness, faint tempered wood.  The palate is incredibly vibrant and bright.

The kicker: it is not known when this wine was actually opened—most likely 3-4 weeks ago—regardless it’s remarkable. How could this have happened?  Don’t ask.  It, somehow, wound-up in the back of the kitchen-unit, most likely a party.  The only other non-sweet white wine I have known to have this longevity is Joly.  And, Joly this is not; but it’s lovely, and incredibly distinctive.  Based on earlier experiences with this vintage, I would recommend decanting this bottle, or at least opening it a few days before you drink it.

It’s remarkable what we can sometimes take for granted—perhaps less today that say, two years ago. But, an example that quickly comes to mind is Trader Joe’s, which was critically influential in the development of wine-culture in Southern California, going back four decades. They made wine readily available, and affordable—progressively convincing an otherwise largely unknowing populace that wine is an extension of food and that it should be incorporated into daily life. Whether discounted first growths or six-dollar Vouvray, they’re still thriving in the new luxury vertical, completely devoid of snobbery—and, most importantly—giving the customer what they want.

Well, almost. Three-hundred stores and 25 states later, this privately owned and operated company—along with every other “grocery store” in the state of New York—cannot sell wine. Californians can now do nearly all of their shopping at Trader Joe’s—in addition to their more traditional dry-goods, alternative independents and earth-friendly products—they offer produce, meats and myriad artisan goodies. But, if you couldn’t get wine there, would it change the value of your experience?

Apparently, David Paterson, New York’s governor wants more. He proposed this week that the state’s 19,000 grocery and convenience stores be allowed to sell wine. Who could oppose that, right? Well, how about the 2,400 wine and liquor retailers—who are already fighting formidable behemoths with rocks and slings. Think ecommerce giants like wine.com and the pending, much-anticipated arrival of Amazon; not to mention the augmenting dominance of forces like Costco and Whole Foods.

In Southern California, around the same time that Pronto Markets became Trader Joe’s, an Angelino named Steve Wallace was scouring the unspoiled back roads of California and abroad, in search of new wine. A decade or so before that, the Hanson family opened Hi-Time Cellars, an hour or so down the coast; another two decades before that, Sherry Wine and Spirits Co. was founded, in 1934, now Sherry-Lehmann; and over a hundred-years earlier, Acker Merrall & Condit, which prides itself as being America’s oldest and finest wine shop, was founded in 1820.

In 1998, my suggestion that Costco, in the hands of David Andrew, would become ‘one of the largest retailers and potentially dominate the fine wine category in volume,’ was met with both fear and indifference. I recall a specific example from someone who shall remain nameless, in the interest of retribution, who jested about buying Château d’Yquem where he gets his dog food and trash bags. Deep knowledge and customer-service would prevail. We all know how that’s turned out. In its first year, Andrew’s wine program saw a 30 percent increase in fine domestic wine, a 54 percent increase in fine imported wine and a 35 percent increase in imported wine in the under-$10. In 2007, Costco generated $456 million of U.S. Fine Wine sales.

This week, Decanter quoted Mike Martin, owner of Martin Brothers, a thriving shop near three supermarkets on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, said, ‘I’m not worried. They won’t carry what I carry. They won’t compete on ‘82 Latour.’

What’s appealing about opening the doors to 19,000 outlets? The more than ‘$150 million in revenue for the state in licensing and franchise fees over three years, while boosting the state’s wine makers and customer convenience.’ Not only does this proposal allow for additional state revenues, but it also furthering the collective cause—in establishing an even greater omnipresence through convenience and consumer education.

Only time will tell the fate of retailers in Manhattan, America’s single-biggest wine market, and throughout the state of New York. California has a few success stories to offer: Wally’s continues to thrive, as does Hi-Time Cellars, not to mention a few other folks like K&L, now on their third location, this one in Los Angeles—the second largest wine consumption city in the United States.

Lest we forget the trailblazers of decades past—what set them apart then, is what defines the success of today’s independent players: innovation. Food for thought.