New York Wine: Bedell Cupola

Wyatt Peabody — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 07:14:43 +0000

Bedell Cellars 1997 Cupola North Fork of Long Island 70% Cabernet Sauvignon 20% Cabernet Franc 10% Merlot Cutchogue, NY. Deep red in color. Incredibly complex aromas of black fruit, persimmon, Asian spice, faint soy, mature black plum, brown spice, date, faint tobacco, and orange peel. The rich flavors of beautiful black fruit—found in plums and cherries—lead into date, faint coffee and toffee; with time, additional herbaceous characteristics and unyielding layers of fruit continue to evolve. Incredibly well-made, with great structure and finesse. Complete long finish—supple lovely wine.

It’s a pleasure to drink a domestic Bordeaux blend like this, which stands up to France, and certainly to California. Sadly, as close as it is to Manhattan—few people there have a clue about the greatness of Long Island wines. Then again, as Hugo d’Acosta—Casa de Piedra winemaker/founder—says “los caminos malos traen a visitantes buenos, los caminos buenos significan a visitantes malos.” In short: the lesser-known attracts a better visitor. Talk to some of the older residents of Napa about that dichotomy.

If you can find this wine, drink it now.

Bon Savant » North Fork

New York Wine: Bedell Cupola